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    Huizhou-a shining pearl located in eastern Guangdong, known as the "important town in eastern Guangdong, famous county in Lingnan", gathers landscapes of sea, lakes, mountains, water, and waterfalls, and integrates the culture of the Dongjiang basin.

米蘭時(shí)裝周主辦方表示:傳統(tǒng)時(shí)裝周日程安排無(wú)需改變

Source: Time:2020-05-28 16:42:54 views:

Carlo Capasa 評(píng)論:“上一季,我們面向中國(guó)觀(guān)眾的直播成功吸引了2500萬(wàn)人,我認(rèn)為這是一個(gè)非常好的結(jié)果?!?/div>

在疫情期間,一些時(shí)裝設(shè)計(jì)師呼吁徹底改變時(shí)尚規(guī)則,減少舉辦時(shí)裝秀的頻率。但米蘭時(shí)裝周主辦方 Camera della Moda 意大利國(guó)家時(shí)裝商會(huì)主席 Carlo Capasa 先生明確表示:傳統(tǒng)的時(shí)尚日程將會(huì)延續(xù),未來(lái)仍將每年舉辦四次時(shí)裝周。 Carlo Capasa 解釋道:“我仍然認(rèn)為,我們應(yīng)該每年舉辦兩次男裝周和兩次女裝周,因?yàn)樗鼈儗儆诓煌男袠I(yè)??偟膩?lái)說(shuō),我認(rèn)為這是保持平衡的最好方法。這兩個(gè)不同的行業(yè)面向不同的買(mǎi)手,不同的零售商和制造商。這是事實(shí)。一些品牌可能想要與眾不同,男女同臺(tái)走秀,我認(rèn)為,這也是一個(gè)好的選擇?!? 由于新冠病毒疫情,Carlo Capasa在4月份做出決定,取消了今年6月的男裝周,部分替換為將于7月14日至17日舉辦的米蘭數(shù)字時(shí)裝周 (Milan Digital Fashion Week)。 本月,以 Dries Van Noten為首的一群設(shè)計(jì)師,包括:Craig Green、Tory Burch和 Thom Browne等業(yè)內(nèi)人士,都呼吁放慢時(shí)尚的腳步,采取靈活的發(fā)布時(shí)間。 Gucci(古馳)創(chuàng)意總監(jiān) Alessandro Michele 本周也在其 Instagram 賬號(hào)上呼吁對(duì)時(shí)尚行業(yè)進(jìn)行重大調(diào)整。 這些設(shè)計(jì)師們認(rèn)為,時(shí)裝秀的舉辦時(shí)間應(yīng)該更貼近產(chǎn)品真正進(jìn)入零售門(mén)店的實(shí)際日期。但 Carlo Capasa堅(jiān)持,2021年米蘭時(shí)裝周仍會(huì)采取傳統(tǒng)日程:在1月和6月各舉辦一場(chǎng)男裝周,在2月和9月各舉辦一場(chǎng)女裝周。 Carlo Capasa 解釋說(shuō):“當(dāng)然,一切都取決于疫情的控制。但我們希望明年能回歸正常……現(xiàn)在,每個(gè)人都非常渴望改變一切。但是改變應(yīng)該來(lái)自我們的內(nèi)心。別忘了,時(shí)尚行業(yè)從過(guò)去到現(xiàn)在一直運(yùn)營(yíng)得很好??纯唇裉齑罅砍晒Φ哪贻p設(shè)計(jì)師。就像我們意大利語(yǔ)中說(shuō)的:Non buttare il neonato con l ‘a(chǎn)cqua sporca。這句話(huà)的意思是:不要把你的孩子連同洗澡水一起倒掉。” Carlo Capasa 給出了很多不更改傳統(tǒng)日程的理由。他說(shuō):“我完全不同意在開(kāi)始真正銷(xiāo)售某個(gè)系列之前才舉辦時(shí)裝秀的觀(guān)點(diǎn)。時(shí)裝秀變成了一個(gè)商業(yè)計(jì)劃,而不是一種創(chuàng)造性的展示。所以,準(zhǔn)備時(shí)裝秀成了造型師和跟單員的工作,削弱了設(shè)計(jì)師的重要性。” “其次,如果品牌基于六個(gè)月前的過(guò)往銷(xiāo)量來(lái)安排時(shí)裝秀,你在創(chuàng)造力方面的自由度就會(huì)大大降低。我們也相信,留給媒體足夠的時(shí)間去拍攝和呈現(xiàn)新趨勢(shì),并傳達(dá)給客戶(hù),以及留給消費(fèi)者足夠的時(shí)間去消化這些創(chuàng)意,是很重要的。平面媒體仍然是我們行業(yè)的重要組成部分。如果我們扼殺了這個(gè)市場(chǎng),那就只剩下 Instagram等數(shù)字社交媒體了。這并不是一個(gè)好主意。” “我們不相信純粹的營(yíng)銷(xiāo)。我想我們?cè)诜▏?guó)的同行也有同樣的想法。未來(lái)不是靠市場(chǎng)營(yíng)銷(xiāo),而是要?jiǎng)?chuàng)造夢(mèng)想。另外,我們不接受即看即買(mǎi)的想法,即使某幾個(gè)品牌已經(jīng)嘗試過(guò)這種做法。Burberry或 Tom Ford嘗試過(guò),效果不是很好,不是嗎?” 但 Carlo Capasa 也對(duì) Dries Van Noten等人的一些抱怨表示了認(rèn)同:過(guò)度降價(jià)對(duì)時(shí)尚行業(yè)產(chǎn)生了很大的負(fù)面影響。 他說(shuō):“服裝店對(duì)季節(jié)的依賴(lài)太強(qiáng)。到處都在降價(jià)。我們需要重新樹(shù)立起這樣的觀(guān)念:我們的產(chǎn)品是有價(jià)值的。遺憾的是,快時(shí)尚導(dǎo)致了產(chǎn)品過(guò)剩。” Carlo Capasa 強(qiáng)調(diào):“我們的目標(biāo)是努力為設(shè)計(jì)師和品牌創(chuàng)造最好的機(jī)會(huì)來(lái)表達(dá)自己。無(wú)論是數(shù)字化還是線(xiàn)下的機(jī)會(huì)?!?img src="/uFile/103809/image/2020528164450243.jpg" alt="" />

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